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It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

Working up a Britpop As most of you know I gave in and bought a Britpop mid 2021 to take out the one variable to boat speed that was unknown to me. It was not that my Alternative was slow, it was just all the fast designs today have a significant chine and volume at the back end and that sowed an element of doubt in my mind over my boats overall performance. Funnily enough I thought that any tiny lack of performance was in light weather rather than heavy. In a breeze on flat water, I felt the Alternative had a slight edge The road to glory is not as simple as buying a Britpop or similar modern design and does not lead to race winning performance. Here is my story so far. The initial set up The third hand hull (2014 Robot build) was sound with a few scratches on the hull and bulb that I was able to polish out however it had a couple of chunks taken out of the trailing edge of the fin. It had an excellent RMG winch and fittings so nothing had to be done to the hull fin and bulb. There was no RC so I bought a Futaba I6 transmitter and receiver which I found to be excellent and replaced the rudder servo with a futaba 3010. The reason for using a Futaba instead of the Flysky was the Futaba had a ratchet on the winch. I coated all the connections in Corrosion X to stop any corrosion in salt water. However I found that was not enough as when the radio pot leaked with salt water and I left it for a couple of days, the connectors showed signs of corrosion and had to be replaced. A cut down kilner jar rubber seal inserted in the lid fixed the leak or so I thought and replaced connectors got the electrics back up and running reliably. The hull is cleaned with T cut and left at that. There are a couple of chips in the trailing edge of the fin but I have not noticed any problem with that but are now repaired. I had worked up good rigs on my Alternative and all I had to do was transfer them to the Britpop. The rigs are BG sails set on PG spars with 11 and 7 mm pre bend on the A and B rig. The settings are almost identical between the boat designs. You can see the rig set up here. although I have made a few changes to the jib attachment at the head because the loop knot I used to attach the topping lift slipped on the B and C rig with disastrous results so I attach the topping lift and jib luff direct to the hook on the mast (See the story here ) . On the A rig, my loop knot is a bowline with a locking half hitch coated in super glue to make sure there is no slippage. there are more pictures of the current rig below. The sheets are 35kg line as is the line to the winch. The sheets need replacing regularly but I find anything heavier does not ease effectively in very light weather. I have tested the 35kg line in 25-30 knots of breeze with the C rig and top end of the A rig so they are strong enough. I use the standard setup settings on the BG website as my starting point and always carry a rig stick to make sure the rake is correct and therefore the boat is balanced and run a tape over the foot and leach measurements. A wise man in Birkenhead said to me, the secret in setting up the boat is to have a list of goto settings and keep everything as simple as possible. There are changes made to my original rig setups which I have previously documented but the latest are from events occurring at the 2 Islands ranking event where I broke a shroud and had no spare. I now have spare A and B Jibs on booms, and completing spare A and B masts with mains, along with spare shrouds and backstays. The last thing was to put the boat in the measuring tank to look at two things. One was the fore and aft balance of the boat which I am happy to say is good. The bow was out of the water for just under an inch from the back of the bow bumper so no need to do anything. The other thing was to see if I could drop the bulb/fin as I know we had approximately a 5 mm gap to the measuring bar when last measured. Sure enough, it could drop 4.5mm which does not sound a lot but sailing hard up wind, moving 2.5kg, 4.5mm further out is quite a bit of righting moment. Of course, now I need a securing bolt with an extra 5mm on it. To drop the fin, I put together spacers on top of the fin (three section of cable tie stuck together with super glue and packed out the trailing edge with Isopon so the fin was nice and snug in the case. The last thing was to replace my futaba 3010 servo with a BLS471sv. It was not a cheap replacement but the rudder is tighter with no movement and centres perfectly every time. WIth the 3010, if you move the rudder, there was about 5mm movement on the trailing edge. With the 471 there is no movement at all. Once the Britpop was set up and sailing it was time to apply some magic which I hate to say only seems to come through experience, racing and practice, or as my old 470 sparing partner and super coach said, you just need many hours on the water. The observations below are my learnings from the racing so far. Where is the magic A simple rig setup Articles on setting up the rig on an IOM may talk about how the mast control is split into 3 sections. The bottom third is controlled by the mast ram, the middle third is controlled by the spreaders and the rig tension and the top third is controlled by backstay tension. That is the easy bit. The hard bit is to determine what your initial racing setup should be based on your understanding of the mast bend/mainsail relationship. The experts are able to set their boats up almost by feel. They have done it so many times before and know what works and what doesn't work and have good reliable base settings. The ultimate test of a correct set up is to tack your boat on the limit of a rig and have the boat accelerate away with little or no helm interaction. To learn about the impact of different adjustments, I like to experiment by laying the boat with the mast horizontal. Bear in mind I use BG sails which has luff curve built in so giving great flexibility in the way you shape the sail and these are fitted to a PG mast (10mm prebend) on a Britpop. My goal is to understand how the mast bend works given different settings from one extreme to another. Once I have been through this exercise, I identify one mid range setting, mark everything up to this setting and this will be my start point for racing. If there is more or less wind, I will make mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe shroud tension. The first thing to do is set the mast up with relatively slack shrouds for light weather. The leeward shroud must not go soft when on the wind and then apply enough backstay so the mast is as straight as possible even through the deck. You should have a couple mm of rake on your spreaders. This is the starting point for light weather. Now if you apply more backstay you begin to de-power the rig, the mast will bend evenly but more in in the central third. If you keep the shroud tension the same and apply more backstay, the main will end up flat at the middle/ bottom third and be too full at the top and may even break down in the middle, if you overdue the backstay tension. Our goal is to keep the power low down and blade out or flatten the top. As the wind builds above an imaginary 5 knots or so, gradually stiffen the mast low down by applying a little more rig tension and add a tiny bit of reverse bend at the deck with the mast chock. Remember the rig tension will affect the middle third of the mast. As you stiffen the bottom and middle third of the mast, you encourage more bend at the top which will help blade out the sail effectively depowering the rig. The rig tension is gradually increased through the wind range, 0-5, 5-10,10-15. At the top end of the A rig you need max rig tension to get as much bend as possible in the top third of the mast so you blade out the top of the sail. You should end up with slight reverse bend at the deck level, an even bend through the mast with slightly more induced at the top. If it all works out when sailing upwind, your main should fill evenly top to bottom and invert at the top as the rig becomes overpowered. The goal of this exercise is to develop an understanding of how the rig works not to develop a myriad of settings for different wind ranges. Once you have tried this indoors and understood how everything fits together, find a mid point setting (5 to 10 knots) and test it out on the water. If you are happy with what you see, mark everything up so you can repeat the setup when you next rig your boat. The usual rules apply for rig set up, set the kicker for downwind, use the backstay for upwind leach tension, make the jib slot parallel to the main as well as using the BG measurement for distance from leach line to jib leach and main and jib foot depth. From this setup you will only need to apply mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe a slight increase of decrease on shroud tension. When I set up, I have marked positions for the shroud bottle screws (locking nuts), sheet hooks, sail foot depths, mast rake and leach twist distances from the topping lift, sheeting angle for the main and jib. With these as a starting point, I know I have a reliable setup and if I need to adjust anything by more then a few mm, something is wrong in my initial setup. Some pictures of the extreme setting to see their impact on the mainsail 1 The shrouds are as slack as they can be with a straight mast. Perfect starting point for light weather The effect of too much backstay with little rig tensions. The sail has inverted at the numbers and the top of the mast is still relatively straight at the top third. The same setting as above only I have Increased the shroud tension to the max. Note how the middle has straightened out. I could straighten the middle of the mast more if I want with a little more mast chock. Setting adjustments are subtle for any given condition and needs only mm's of change but one must read the settings guide thoroughly, otherwise basic mistakes can be made. In light weather I noticed at one of the ranking events, that Chris Harris who won the day, using more depth in the jib foot in light weather and I estimated it to be 25-30mm. The BG standard measurement is circa 22mm. It was the same on his mainsail, so I tried the same and went from 22 to 30 and saw an increase in speed with the boat pointing at the same height or higher to windward. Of course you still need to sail fast and free to maximise speed around the course. On making further enquiries about the main and jib foot depth, I had assumed that the BG measurements were from the centre of the boom to the foot of the sail. I emailed Brad Gibson and he replied saying that the measurement is from the edge of the booms which make 5mm difference. Took me 6 months to work that one out. The second setting adjustment was on the mainsail in a breeze. I have always struggled to keep the top third of the main from backwinding at the top end of the A rig, even with the jib leech well open. I found by flattening the foot by 5mm, increasing the shroud tension to move the bend up the mast with 1-3 mm of extra back stay, the top of the sail is flattened and works more effectively and does not backwind so much in the gusts. It seemed similar to when we used to blade out the top of the mainsail on fractional rig yachts. When you measure the luff curve on the mainsail luff of a BG sail, there is a max of 10mm in a smooth curve from the mast head to 600mm down. This is the ideal curve one needs to achieve on the mast so the top of the sail flattens evenly and remains stable. I slightly flatten the jib on flat water at the top end of the A rig but only by 5mm or so. The third adjustment is with the shrouds. Starting lose in light weather they should be progressively tightened as the wind builds. The critical thing to look for is that the mast stays in column on either tack when set up for windward work and the leeward shroud should not go slack when the boat is under pressure otherwise the windward spreader will push the middle of the mast to leeward. The shrouds should not be so tight that the middle of the mast cannot flex fore and aft to de-power the rig in a gust. Check that the shrouds are of equal length when pulled down the front of the mast so you know when equally tensioned the mast will be upright and when you rig the boat, lay it on the ground or stand so you can see down the mast to make sure there is no sideways bend caused by uneven shrouds tension and double check the backstay crane is central. When the boat is set up correctly it rarely needs changing. I have sailed for a whole day with variable conditions without changing a thing. If you find yourself tinkering after each race your boat is not optimised. If the wind does build during the day you will need to tighten the jib luff slightly which has the effect of tightening the jib leech. A loose jib leech will cause the boat to luff up in a breeze and that is slow. If you have a transmitter with a ratchet sheet, you have a huge advantage with the precision you can set the sheeting angle of the sails. The video below show the effect of easing the sheets 1 2 or 3 clicks. Double click on the screen for full screen view. Once your boat is set up, the rest is down to your sailing skill which I cover on another page. See my latest setup checklist at the bottom of the page but I regularly re read the BG setup tips to make sure I have not made any silly mistakes. Finally a couple of pictures. The first is the method of keeping the jib boom as low as possible. I use a sheet hook with a series of holes spaced 2.5mm apart so I can get the jib as close to the deck as possible. The only downside with the use of the clamp on the boom is that the line wears after several weekends and has to be replaced however this is only a 5 minute job. I have changed to tying the tack line onto the boom which eliminates there clamp, sheet hook and ring The next picture shows how I have lowered the mast by 7 to 10mm to get the lower band below the deck level by 5mm. It involved modifying the kicker fitting, shortening the length of it by 10mm which I explained in a thought for the day. I also learnt how salt crystallises inside your mast if you do not flush them out on a regular basis. Note that if you lower the mast too much the gooseneck will not be able to but up against the mast ram and stop any mast rotation. I use a standard Cunningham arrangement feeding to the two cable ties and the bowsie is to tighten the jackstay (luff wire of the mainsail). This one shows my final jib head arrangement for the A rig which allows the jib to freely rotate in very light weather. The design is the one suggested by sails etc however I have gone back to attaching the leech line and jib luff to the hook on the mast Here is the sailsetc boom end fitting that eliminated the wear on the elasticated topping lift. The elastic runs inside the boom. Here you can see the velcro in the radio pot which allows me to position everything at the top of the pot so I have no issues if salt water accidentally gets in. A note for open water compared to inland sailing In open water there is a good chance you will be sailing in waves. The boat is constantly accelerating and de-accelerating. The sails will nearly always require more depth and twist than on flat water to power through the waves. Again we are only talking a mm or two of change in your setting but it will make a huge difference. One last thing. I picked up a rig tension meter in mid 2022 and found this to be invaluable. Bearing in mind the impact of rig tension on the middle third of the mast, you must have a base starting point. If you want one, email JohnGill1003@gmail.com . He is based in the UK. It is a quality product and each one is individually tested. Før et arrangement Bestem hva som er målet ditt med seiling Kjenn din racing regler og taktikk Administrer investeringen din med den forsiktige vedlikehold av båt Seil raskt med høyre tuning og oppsett av båter Kjenn radiokontrollene dine Effektiv båtøvelse Sørg for konsekvent konfigurering ved bruk sjekklister Vet hvordan været vil hjelpe deg Nyttig referanser

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

Avrunding i forkant Hva du trenger å vite Unngå folkemengder Ikke treff merket Kjenn dine regler Kom inn i sonen på styrbord Detaljene Ved forovermerket er det små muligheter for å få plass, men store muligheter til å løsne. I ytterste konsekvens kan du komme til første mark andre som kommer inn på babord, men du kan ikke finne et gap i køen av styrbord båter som kommer inn i merket. Du må passere bak alle styrbordbåtene som triller inn den ene etter den andre, og du kan runde sist. Så den gylne regelen som forbereder seg på vindstreken er å nærme seg på styrbord etter å ha slått minst 6 båtlengder fra merket, så det er ingen tvil om at du har slått utenfor sonen. Hvis det er et spredemerke, gi deg litt plass til å svinge for å unngå forstyrret luft og sikre at du kan seile best fart til spredemerket. Hvis du ser noen av avrundingene forover i verden i Brasil, kan du se mange eksempler på gevinster og tap. Det er et par lenker nederst i denne artikkelen, og alle mesterskapsvideoene er HER På din tilnærming prøver og unngå klynger av båter. De vil alltid bremse deg med å begrense bevegelsen og til og med tvinge deg bort fra merket. I verste fall kan du være involvert i en hendelse og måtte ta en straffesving Det sier seg selv å unngå å treffe merket eller sprederen som forårsaker en straffesving. Gi deg selv litt ekstra rom. Kjenn dine regler ved merket Her er viktige regler Merkesonen er 4 båtlengder R18 Enhver båt som hakker i merkesonen har praktisk talt ingen rettigheter Hvis du slår i sonen og styrbordbåten bak må luffe for å unngå deg, pådrar du deg en straff. Du har ingen rettigheter for merkerom. Hvis to båter slår samtidig i sone, må den på den andre babord side holde seg fri og en ny overlapping etableres når tacks er fullført Hvis du treffer merket fordi du er krenket, blir du frikjent og trenger ikke å ta en sving Videoeksempler Når det går galt Handlinger ved spredermerket

Etter seiling "Ta vare på båten din, og den vil passe på deg" Hva du trenger å vite Beskytt alltid båten mot direkte sollys Tørk alltid båt og seil etter seilas Skyll innsiden av skroget med en halv kopp vann hvis du har seilt i saltvann Fjern en lapp for å tillate ventilasjon Tørk seilene med et håndkle for å forhindre vannmerker Sjekk linjer for tegn på floss og knuter som kan løsne Rengjør og beskytt elektrisitet med vaselin eller tilsvarende Beskytt finnene med isolasjonsskum Slipp alle seilspenningsanordninger, kicker, cunningham, jackstay osv Lagre seil og rigger i en eske for beskyttelse Detaljene Rett før jeg begynner er det en ting å nevne. Mellom løp når båten din er ute av vannet på solfylte dager, sett den ned i skygge eller dekk den med et håndkle. Unnlatelse av å gjøre dette kan resultere i et vridd ror eller finn og i ekstrem varme vil det føre til at epoksyen i skroget blir herdet igjen. Så du har fullført løpet for dagen, og du tror det er over. Ikke helt. Du har investert mye tid og penger i din båt og seil, og det må behandles med respekt. Så hva skal du gjøre. Tørk alltid båten grundig med et håndkle og tøm alt vannet som har kommet inn i båten. Fjern endedekkene for å la luft strømme gjennom skroget og tørke innsiden. Du vil ikke ha kondens når båten er lagret i løpet av uken. Hvis du seiler i saltvann og båten har lekket, legg en halv kopp ferskvann inne i skroget og skyll saltet ut. Tørk seilene forsiktig med et håndkle for å unngå vannmerker. Lett alle strekklinjene slik at seilene dine ikke deformeres. Når de er helt tørre, legg dem tilbake i riggboksen for oppbevaring. Skann linjene på båten din for slitasje og kontroller at knutene er sikre. Hvis knutene er overlimt, bør de aldri bli angret. Kontroller radiogryten for fuktighet og tørk og koble fra batteriet og ta det ut for opplading senere. Det er en god politikk å ta med reservebatterier. Umiddelbart etter at du har fjernet båten fra vannet, legg skumrørisolasjon på de fremre og bakre kantene på finnen, pæren og roret, slik at de ikke blir skadet under transporten. Når du seiler lokalt og transporterer en fullt rigget båt, må du kontrollere at skroget sitter på noe rent og mykt, eller hvis du transporterer uten riggen, må du sette en ring med rørisolasjon rundt baugen og akterenden. Dette vil suspendere båten midt i luften og dermed forhindre slitasje på siden av skroget.

På dagen (Klikk på blå tekst) Å sette seg opp er like viktig som å sette opp båten Bruk en repeterbar prosess for å sette opp båten Bruk tiden på en klok måte seiling før start Starten er 80% av løpet, gjør det bra Følg planen din for første etappe forover og forbered deg på å dukke båter for å komme til ønsket side av banen Planlegg avrundingen av Windward -merket tidlig, kom på styrbord og unngå bunter Sett opp for å komme til ønsket side av løpet Leeward mark - Vær inne i båten, nær deg bredt og avslutt nær merket Siste slag - Løst deksel for å beholde posisjonen Etterbehandlingsmerker har de samme reglene som forovermerket. Unngå å slå i sonen Kjør gjennom sjekklisten etter seiling , ren og tørr båt, løsne seil etc. Gylne regler Hold deg unna trøbbel Setter alt sammen - Video av et verdensmesterskapsløp med taktisk voiceover

Australske nettsteder Radiokontrollseiling i saltvann Darren Paulic postet dette på Facebook RC Sailing Group Radio seilbutikk Radio Supplies Australia Radio Yachts av Red Ant SailRC radiostyringsutstyr 360 seil Cat Sails FRD Frank Russell Design JG Sails Plan B Spectre Sails Mirage Radio Yachts New Zealand -sider Vickers RC Sailing Radio Yacht Supplies Ultralite Radio Yachtin g NZ Radio Yachting Association

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

gylne regler - Å vinne betyr ikke alltid å være først. Å vinne betyr at du gjør det bedre enn du noen gang har gjort før. ” - Bonnie Blair Hva du trenger å vite Målet er ikke å vinne, men å gjennomføre planen din Du trenger ikke å vinne et løp for å vinne serien Starten er 80% av løpet Seil ditt eget løp og unngå store grupper med båter Hold deg unna trøbbel Strafferett umiddelbart for hver overtredelse Ha det gøy og nyt løpet Jeg elsker sitatet øverst på denne siden. Bare én person kan være vinneren, så et mål å ha, "Å gjøre det bedre enn du noen gang har gjort før". Hva er de viktigste takeawayene for racing fra dette nettstedet. Vi snakket om ikke å fokusere på seieren, men gjennomføre planen din. Jeg oppdaget hvordan jeg skulle vinne i ungdommen ved ikke å fokusere på gleden av å være vinneren, men på alle detaljene som trengs for å vinne. Jeg seilte i et løp med riktig tankesett og fokus, da jeg plutselig for første gang i mitt liv befant meg på forsiden av flåten. Hva gjorde jeg? I sjokk over situasjonen tenkte jeg på å ikke miste plassen min og sluttet å tenke på detaljene. Kan du gjette hva som skjedde? Jeg falt tilbake i flåten. Men når jeg først hadde etablert tankegangen for å fokusere på detaljene, ble stedet mitt på forsiden av flåten etablert, og jeg så aldri tilbake. I en serie trenger du ikke å vinne hvert løp. Konsistens og fastholdelse av planen din vil gi deg en rekke toppresultater. Du vet aldri hva som kommer til å skje før dagen begynner, men du kan kontrollere hva du kan kontrollere, dvs. forberedelse, sjekklister, studere vannet, øve før arrangementet og så videre. Få detaljene riktig, så får du resultatene. Jeg kan ikke understreke nok at løpet er stort sett over etter det første seilingsminuttet. Ja det vil bli skift og stedendringer, men hierarkiet er etablert. Så hvis du skal øve og fokusere på noe, fokuser du på starten. Du kommer ikke til å bli skuffet. Hvis du ser løp, vil du se at det alltid er grupper av båter som forstyrrer hverandre, hundekamper, luffing etc. Hvis du blir involvert i en gruppe, risikerer du i verste fall en hendelse og en straffesving, i beste fall vil de bremse deg mens du kjemper for å unnslippe pakken. Du vil unngå alt dette. Hold deg unna problemer og vær tydelig. Gjør dette, og du vil finne at du vil hente steder mens andre seilere fokuserer på de små kampene og mister oversikten over den overordnede planen. Hvis du gjør en overtredelse, må du ta turen umiddelbart, ikke halvveis nedover neste etappe. Noe jeg ikke har dekket og sannsynligvis det viktigste elementet på dette nettstedet er å ha det gøy. Når du seiler, bør du glise fra øret av gleden av å være ute i et fantastisk miljø, med god vennlig drilleri og en hurtig godt seilt båt. For en glede det vil bli å gjøre det bedre enn du noen gang har gjort før.

Bygg støpselet Prosessen er best forklart av Brad Gibson, i videoen hans Bygg skrogpluggen men Det er noen nyanser som jeg dekker nedenfor: Klikk på et hvilket som helst bilde for å utvide bildet. 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

Bilder med tillatelse fra Nika Davis https://nikadavis.com BYGG, SETUP, TUNE OG LØP EN INTERNASJONAL EN METER (IOM) YACHT Latest Site News 06/01/2025 NEW SEARCH BUTTON ADDED IN TOP RIGHT CORNER OF EACH PAGE. IF YOU WANT TO FIND THE BLOG ON HIGH MODE LOW MODE OR MIXING for example, JUST TYPE THE WORD AND YOU WILL GET TO THE RELEVANT PAGES. If you enjoy this site and would like to support it for the future, click on the coffee pot and buy me a coffee. The money goes toward the Wix subscription fees and enables me to avoid hassling you with annoying adverts. This is a not for profit web site and once the sub is covered I will remove the request for support. My thanks to the 66 supporters so far. You have made a difference Introduksjon I fjor bygde jeg og seilte en IOM -modellyacht. Det var en kronglete reise som forsket på all informasjon, og som en tidligere jolle -verdensmester, olympisk kampanjer, yachtskipper og taktiker, ønsket jeg å dykke dypt ned i IOM -ressursene for å hjelpe meg på min reise. IOM -informasjon er spredt over nettet, så det var fornuftig for meg å katalogisere det jeg lærte, legge til min egen racingkunnskap og erfaring til det som allerede er der ute og vise mitt "alternative" bygg i glass -epoxy. Ved å sette kunnskapen inn på dette nettstedet og dele det med nykommere og eksisterende eiere, håper jeg at det vil gi en verdifull ressurs og snarvei for å bygge videre på deres eksisterende kunnskap. Hvis jeg har savnet noen verdifulle nettsteder, kan du videresende lenken, så legger jeg den til. . Det er 4 seksjoner. 1 En katalog med nettsteder for båtprodusenter, seilprodusenter, monteringsleverandører etc. Se menyen "Nyttige nettsteder" 2 Detaljer om alt jeg har lært i løpet av min seilerkarriere sammen med de beste tipsene fra nettet for å komme rundt et løpsbane på den raskeste måten. Se menyen "Racing an IOM". Jeg legger til dette emnet hele tiden. 3 Et billedlig syn på byggingen av mine egne båter. Se meny "Bygg anIOM" 4 "Tanke for dagen" på menyen ovenfor er bloggen min om aspekter ved tuning og racing av en IOM og deler fremdriften min i kampanjen for en Britpop rundt om i landet. Send en melding hvis du liker nettstedet eller ønsker å se annen informasjon og registrer deg for å bli medlem HVEM ER DETTE STEDET FOR Nybegynnere, syklister og amatørbåtbyggere NYTT TIL RADIO SEILING Uavhengig av hvilken klasse du ønsker å gå inn i, er det verdifull informasjon om leverandører, taktikk og racing og valg av båt og notater om bygging hvis du bestemmer deg for å gå den ruten CLUB IOM SAILOR Ved å bruke noen av taktikkene, trimme notater og lære litt mer om reglene, kan du forbedre ytelsen til deg og båten din og få resultatene du ønsker i klubbrittet ditt. DEN KONKURRANSE RACER All informasjon i Racing an IOM -menyen vil være relevant, spesielt observasjonene i videoene fra mesterskapsløpene for å forstå nyansene ved å starte og komme til forsiden av flåten 1. vindstrekk. om forfatteren Hva folk sier om nettstedet "Takk Nigel for et strålende nettsted" "Glad for å finne nettstedet ditt - jeg er en ny konvertere til IOM -eierskap, så jeg er veldig glad for å få tilgang til en så stor ressurs" "Wow, en flott kilde. Ble nettopp interessert i IOM etter å ha oppdaget det på YouTube. Takk" "En enkel å navigere (veldig viktig) ressurs. Bare kommentarer vil være å få større bilder tilgjengelig ved å klikke på små, for å se detaljer." Jobben er gjort "Som noen som profesjonelt bygde og administrerte store nettsteder, har du gjort en god jobb." "Å, jeg kunne se at jeg gjorde noen feil i VM 2019 Brasil ... Fin jobb !" "Nigel, enestående innsats. Denne informasjonen vil hjelpe mange av oss. Takk for all informasjon Utmerket ressurs, og veldig nyttig. Takk for at du la ned så mye arbeid! " "Kjempebra jobb! ET SLUTTEORD FRA FORFATTEREN Jeg vil si en stor takk for at du så på dette IOMBuildSetupTuneRace -nettstedet. Målet mitt er å konsolidere og dele informasjon om IOM -ting på nettstedet og kombinere det med min egen jolle -racingopplevelse over 35 år. Det ble bygget ut av min frustrasjon over å få tilgang til god informasjon om radioseiling og spesielt IOM -båter. Jeg pleide å jobbe for et selskap som samlet inn dato og presenterte den online for kundene (mot en stor avgift selvfølgelig), så dette var et logisk skritt for meg. Nettstedet er nå komplett fra et racing- og båtbyggingssynspunkt, og jeg håper det vil hjelpe nykommere og eksisterende eiere. Den neste fasen er å fokusere på racing og observasjon på masteseilkombinasjoner for å virkelig forstå hva som er det beste oppsettet. Det er en konstant læringsprosess. Hvis det er noe annet du ønsker dekket, vil jeg gjerne undersøke og publisere. Vennligst la meg vite . En tjeneste jeg vil be om er tilbakemelding. De sier at ingen nyheter er gode nyheter, men jeg vil gjerne høre hva du synes. Nettstedet har over 2800 brukere og har blitt studert i over 28 dager, så jeg antar at informasjonen er relevant. La meg høre hva du syns. Send meg lenker til alle båtprosjekter du har, så legger jeg dem til på siden. Jeg har detaljert en epoxy -konstruksjon, men vil referere til mer treaktige prosjekter. Del nettstedet så langt og bredt som mulig, slik at så mange som kan dra nytte av det. Dette er ikke et kommersielt foretak, men jeg får et kick av å se antall brukere vokse, noe som er min retur for å bygge dette nettstedet. Vær trygg og ha et fantastisk seilår. Nigel

The DF65 Project This is the smallest boat I have ever sailed and one that took the longest to rig even thought the part and instructions are of the best quality. Of course like the DF95 ,it is a one design but like the 95 there are so many nuances that can be applied. I built the 65 in the same way I built the 95 so just look at the 95 page for the tips. Many of the tuning tips on Ken Reads 95 tuning tips can be applied to the 65. Enough has been sail about the boat in terms of build, tuning and racing, I will just highlight the key Youtube videos. DF65 DF95 Dragon Force Tuning Tips - An Australia based site with many uploads from the Australian champion. John Tushingham's DF 65 Talk at MYA AGM 2023 The sound quality is not great but it is good to hear John's tips based on observation rather than science. Dragon Sailing North America An abundance of tips from across North America