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Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

Videoer fra hele verden 2021 Region 5 IOM regatta Corpus Christi Texas 27. februar - 1. mars 2020. Verdensmesterskap i Brasil 2019 Heat 6 Fleet A Heat 6 Fleet E Heat 6 Fleet B Heat 8 Fleet A Heat 8 Fleet B Heat 9 Fleet A Heat 9 Fleet B Heat 14 Fleet A Heat 17 Fleet A Heat 19 Fleet A Heat 19 Fleet B Heat 20 Fleet B Heat 22 Fleet D Heat 23 Fleet B Heat 24 Fleet A 2019 australske nasjonale mesterskap Dag 1 2. seeding race Race 4 A Fleet Race 2 A Fleet Race 10 A Fleet Race 5 A Fleet Race 5 B Fleet Race 3 B Fleet Løp 13 En flåte 2018 Australia Sunshine Coast regatta Dag 4 Race 1 Heat 2 Dag 4 Race 1 Heat 1 Race 4 B Fleet Seeding Race 1 Seeding Race 2 Race 2 B Fleet Dag 1 Race 3 D Fleet Queensland State Champs Race 2 A Fleet Race 2 B Fleet Race 15 A Fleet Race 18 A Fleet 2017 åpen IOM Masters Holland 2017 LEIPZIG CUP 2017 Australian IOM Nationals Kogarah Bay I OM Worlds 2015 Foster City Siste dag 2012 britiske statsborgere på 2 Island RYC Dag 1 Race 1 A Fleet 2011 VM West Kirby Race 18 A Fleet Race 23 A Fleet - Strålende kampløp mellom Peter Stollery 39 og Brad Gibson 42 Dag 1 Dag 2 Dag 3 Dag 4 Dag 5 Dag 6 Litt nostalgi

Sett opp båten Hva du trenger å vite Trim storseilutvasking med vang for løping Konfigurer for takt og juster hovedtvinningen bare med ryggstøtte og mastestamme Hvis du seiler på en dam, vil forholdene være ganske varierende. Som regel setter jeg båten min opp for de letteste forholdene, men sørger for at jeg kan overlappe hoveddelen for å kontrollere utlutningen og skape kraft i vindkastene Gå gjennom sjekklisten for båtoppsett Kontroller at radioinnstillingene er riktige i henhold til sjekklisten Kontroller rorbevegelsen Skann hele båten for å kontrollere at alt er OK Kontroller at klype er satt inn og fest Er burgee montert Se Brad Gibson 42 og Peter Stollery 39 sette opp riggen for 2011 -verdenene Detaljene Hvis du går gjennom flere av videoene og artiklene om tuning av en IOM ( HER ) , er det en konsekvent prosess som folk har vedtatt som ser ut til å fungere. Etter å ha satt opp båten din med masteriven i henhold til båtplanen, nok skjoldspenning til å stoppe leoch-dekselet fra å henge løst når det slår mot vind, nok ryggstøtte til å rette opp masten og 15-20 mm akkorddybde i foten av hoved- Du er da klar til å starte. Sett båten på et løp med hovedbommen bare ved å berøre skjermene og hold den i vinden du forventer på banen. Stram sparkestroppen til utlutningen vrir seg med en tomme eller så. Gjør dette på både babord og styrbord for å sikre at masten er sentrert og rett. Se om du har mer vri på den ene eller den andre siden. Sett opp storseilet Sett opp for nært slept og juster vridning av storseil med ryggstøtte og mastestamme. Målet er å ha den øverste lekteren parallell med båtens senterlinje og en rimelig luffform som er konsekvent topp til bunn sett bakfra og på utsiden. Hvis du har problemer med storseilspenningen mellom løp og slag, må du kontrollere at du har litt pakking under bunnen av svanehalsen. 2 lag med dekklapp skal gjøre det. Dette endrer geometrien slik at kickeren strammes når bommen går fra et slag til et løp. Kontroller mastebøyningen som ser ned fra toppen av masten. På en A -rigg skal det være en svak S -kurve med svak bakoverbøyning ved mastestammen. B -riggen bør ha en rettferdig kurve som C -riggen, men i mindre grad. Hvis du fulgte instruksjonene i Boat Tuning and Setup og noterte innstillingene, bør det være veldig lite å gjøre annet enn å justere for mer vind eller mindre vind. Hvis du seiler på en dam omgitt av trær, vil forholdene sannsynligvis være ganske varierende. Som regel setter jeg båten min opp for de letteste forholdene, men sørger for at jeg kan overlappe hoveddelen for å kontrollere utseilingen av storseilet og holde den fast i blåser for å skape kraft og akselerasjon. Juster jibben Når du er fornøyd med hoveddelen, se på jibben. Arkinnstillingen vil du ha forhåndsdefinert, men du må sjekke utlutningen. Ser på båten bakfra og til leeward se at igelvridningen er parallell med storseilet. Juster toppliften for å gjøre det slik. Kjør gjennom sjekklisten for alle innstillingene dine for å sikre at ingenting er på sin plass. Sjekk at radioinnstillingene er riktige i henhold til sjekklisten. Du må kanskje mikrojustere arkinnstillingen for forholdene. Som regel, se etter tett ark med hovedbommen sentrert på flatt vann og lette bommene litt når vinden og bølgene øker. Kontroller at rorbevegelsen er OK, og til slutt skanner du hele båten for å kontrollere at alt er i orden og legger burgee til toppen av masten. Sjekk at bung er satt inn og sikret, og du er klar til å starte. Ikke ta mitt ord for å sette opp båten din, ta en titt på noen av eksperter. HER . The Detail If you review several of the videos and articles on tuning an IOM (HERE ) , there is a consistent process people have adopted which seems to work. Having set up your boat with the mast rake according to the boat plan, enough shroud tension to stop the leeward shroud from hanging loose when beating to windward, enough backstay to straighten the mast and 15 mm of chord depth in the foot of the main You are then ready to start. Set the boat up on a run with the main boom just touching the shrouds and hold it in wind that you expect on the course. Tighten the kicking strap until the leach twists by an inch or so. Do this on both port and starboard to make sure the mast is centred and straight. Look to see if you have more twist on one side or the other. If the mast is straight and the twist is different on each tack then your gooseneck may not be parallel with the mast. Set up the mainsail Set up for close hauled and adjust mainsail twist with the backstay and mast ram. The goal is to have the top batten parallel to the centreline of the boat and a fair luff shape consistent top to bottom when viewed from behind and leeward. If you are having problems with the mainsail leach tension between the run and beat, check that you have some packing under the bottom of the gooseneck. 2 layer of deck patch should do it. This alters the geometry so the kicker tightens as the boom goes out from a beat to a run. If you have to add a little kicker tension to get the leech right it will not hurt you. Check the mast bend looking down from the top of the mast. On an A rig there should be a slight S curve with slight reverse bend at the mast ram. The B rig should have a fair curve as will the C rig but to a lesser extent. If you followed the instructions in Boat Tuning and Setup and noted the settings, there should be very little to do other than adjust for more wind or less wind. If you are sailing on a pond surrounded by trees, conditions will likely be quite variable. As a rule I set my boat up for the lightest conditions but enough kicker to control the mainsail leach and hold it firm in puffs to create power and acceleration. I am also setting the mainsheet post lower than usual so that as the wind increases the boom is pulled down slightly better supporting the leech Adjust the jib Once you are happy with the main, look at the jib. The sheet setting you will have pre defined but you need to check the leach. Looking at the boat from behind and to leeward, see that the leech twist is parallel to the mainsail and has a max twist according to you setup numbers. Adjust the topping lift to match the twist depth specified for your boat. As the wind increases, tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly to keep the leech from going soft. Run through checklist for all your settings to ensure nothing is out of place. Check the radio settings are all correct as per checklist. You may need to micro adjust the sheet setting for the conditions. As a rule, look for close sheeting with the main boom 10mm out on flat water and ease the booms out slightly as the wind and waves increase. Check rudder movement is OK and finally scan the whole boat to make sure all is OK and add the burgee to the top of the mast. Check bung is inserted and secure and you are ready to launch. Once all is set, you need to consider conditions on the water. The base settings will give you a good setup but there are fine tweaks to be made. The fundamentals are, flatter sails with less twist in flat water with deeper sails and more twist in choppy water. With experience you will develop your own tweaks but always start with the base settings. Never change anything by more than a couple of mm. There are extremely fine margins between and outstanding setup and an average one. Don't take my word for setting up your boat, have a look at some of experts. HERE .

Noen bøker du kanskje vil lese Teori Seilingsteori og praksis av CA Marchaj 1964 Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing av CA Marchaj 1979 Sail Performance av CA Marchaj 1996 High Performance Sailing av Frank Bethwaite 2010 (2. utgave) Øve på Expert Dinghy Racing av Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vind og strategi av Stuart Walker 1973 Championship Dinghy Sailing av Christopher Caswell og David Ullman 1978 Ser på Sails av Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Winning - The Psychology of Competition av Stuart Walker 1980 Advanced Racing Tactics av Stuart Walker 1981 Seil, løp og vinn av Eric Twiname 1982 This is Boat Tuning for Speed av Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Seil for å vinne serien - Dinghy Helming av Lawrie Smith 1983 - Vindstrategi av David Houghton 1984 - Tuning din Jolle av Lawrie Smith 1985 - Båthastighet av Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 RYA Race Training Manual av Jim Saltonstall 1983 Takk til Brian Outram (Australia) for leselisten Gi meg beskjed om favorittbøkene dine, slik at jeg kan legge dem til på listen

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

Før et arrangement Bestem hva som er målet ditt med seiling Kjenn din racing regler og taktikk Administrer investeringen din med den forsiktige vedlikehold av båt Seil raskt med høyre tuning og oppsett av båter Kjenn radiokontrollene dine Effektiv båtøvelse Sørg for konsekvent konfigurering ved bruk sjekklister Vet hvordan været vil hjelpe deg Nyttig referanser

Racing results 2023 Events Schedule IOM Hampton Court Charity 1st Lincoln District 2nd to Darin Ballington Chipstead District 3rd to Peter Stollery and Craig Richards Bourneville District Did not attend due to virus Poole District 2nd to Craig Richards Manor Park District 2nd to Chris Harris Birkenhead Veterans 1st Watermead District Cancelled due to lack of entries Coalhouse Fort Open Postponned due to too much water Huntingdon Open 3rd to Colin Goodman and Darin Ballington Poole Open 1st (tied on points with Tony Edwards but better discard) Lincoln Ranking 5th Saturday and 4th on Sunday Chipstead Open 1st Keighley Ranking 4th Saturday, 2nd Sunday Chris Harris won both Fleetwood Nationals 6th Frensham Open 1st. Clean sheet of results Spain Europeans 23rd Woodspring Ranking 4th and 6th Emsworth Open 2nd Eastbourne Open 2nd to Dorian Crease in Cheinz Marblehead Chipstead GAMES 1 1st Gust of 25 knots. Three rivers GAMES 8th Suffered from slipping main leech tension fitting Frensham Open In bed with flu Lincoln Ranking Recovering from flu Guildford GAMES 2nd to James Hadden in Up Guildford GAMES 1st Datchet Ranking 6th Datchet Ranking 11th plagued with winch problems Keighley Nationals 6th. Getting to grips with new boat Three rivers GAMES Cancelled Datchet Ranking DF95 Manor Park TT 2nd to Craig Richards Poole Nationals Retired after leading on day 1 2022 Results IOM Manor Park 2nd (winner Darin Ballington) Chipstead 4th (Winner Peter Stollery) Hampton Court 3rd (winner Darin Ballington, 2nd Peter Stollery) Poole 3rd to Craig Richards and Tony Edwards Nationals 24th Chipstead Joint 1st on points but lost on count back to Dave Green Veterans 2nd to winner Tony Edwards Eastbourne 2nd to winner Ken Binks 2 Islands 4th to winner Rob Wilson Poole Ranking 4th and 7th. Tony Edwards won day one and Craig Richards day 2. W Kirby Ranking 12th and 8th Most of the Northern team were on the water. Chelmsford 2nd to Colin Goodman Emsworth 1st Manor Pk Rank 7th and 13th. Most the top UK sailors racing. Winner - Peter Stollery Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st. Masterclass `Met and Southern District championships 1st 2021 Results Chipstead 15th Alternative A day to forget Veterans 15th Alternative Bourneville 1st Britpop (Midland regional champs) Nationals 37th out of 76 - that what happen when you are last off the line in most of the starts. Ranking 3 19th Ranking 4 3rd Frensham open 1st Ranking 5 21st 3 hours sleep in the camper the night before Ranking 6 23rd Only finished 4 out of 9 races due to broken shroud Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st (Metropolitan and southern regional champs) Current UK ranking 21. Room for improvement.

Første ben på vind Hva du trenger å vite Gjennomfør planen din Hva du skal se etter Plan for avrunding av merker godt i forkant av tilnærming Hvilke samtaler kan du ringe Detaljen Gjennomfør planen din. Vel, det forutsetter at du har en. Så hva tenker du å gå med i planen din? Vi diskuterte dette i avsnittet "Seiling før start" HER Prøv å få oversikt over banen fra forskjellige vinkler og test observasjonene dine når du seiler båten din før start og ser på andre båter. Finn ut hvilken side av vindavvisningen som er gunstig, enten ved observasjon fra kysten eller når du kommer ut å seile. Ser vinden sterkere ut på den ene eller den andre siden. Er det noen hindringer (trær, bygninger, store båter), som kan påvirke vinden over banen. Hvordan kommer vindkastene nedover banen, favoriserer de den ene eller den andre siden, skifter vinden betydelig i dem og hvilken takling er gunstig som kommer inn i vindkastet. Er det en betydelig strandlinje som kan få vinden til å bøye seg. Hvis du kan, kan du jobbe med en annen båt for å teste vinden ved å seile opp motsatte sider av takten. Uansett hvordan du gjør det, sett en plan og følg den til forholdene endres og bevis sterkt tyder på en annen fremgangsmåte. Hold til midten av kurset med mindre det er en åpenbar grunn til å være andre steder og se på lokalbefolkningen for å se hvor de går. Du scorer på første slag Unngå folkemengder og bli bokset inn Dra nytte av eventuelle vindbøyninger Fortsett å se opp kurset for skift Unngå vindsoner forårsaket av hindringer Minimer slag Når du prøver å komme til den foretrukne siden av banen, ofre 1 eller 2 båter ved å dukke i stedet for å slå og potensielt bli dratt til feil side av banen. Planlegg godt fremover for fremdriftsmarkering. Hvis du er i nærheten av fronten, har du litt fleksibilitet i tilnærmingen din, og kanskje kan du utføre en last -out -tilgang i siste øyeblikk hvis det er foretrukket, men hvis du er i en mengde, må du sørge for å stille opp på styrbord tidlig, i det minste utenfor 4 -båtsonen, slik at du kan seile rundt i klar luft med fart. Sørg for at du vet hvilken side av løpet du ønsker, og plasser båten din deretter. Hagler på banen På dette tidspunktet er det verdt å nevne noen av haglene du har lov til å gjøre ved starten og seile rundt banen. Reglene angir noen tillatte samtaler som er oppført nedenfor Av en konkurrent “24 Room to Tack” ved en hindring eller for båt i vei - valgfritt svar du tackler Innkalling til protest - 24 protester 15 Båt 33 ute av kontroll (og blir derfor en hindring) Taktisk hagl Styrbord Forbli oppe Ikke noe rom - for å slå innover ved vindstreken Overlapping Ingen overlapping Merk rom Av komiteen Individuell tilbakekalling Generell tilbakekalling Kode U -flagg tilbakekalling Tilbakekalling av svart flagg Hilsen observatør f.eks 59 traff målet. Kontakt mellom 45 og 67 Alt annet er bare forvirrende. Det er meningsløst å gå inn i et argument når alle konkurrentene og tilskuerne lytter. De vil ikke takke deg for det. Eksempelvideo med forvirrende samtaler

Sjekklister Hva du trenger å vite Sjekklister er avgjørende hvis du vil ha et konsistent oppsett og ikke vil legge igjen noe, reise et stykke til et møte i en annen klubb. Detaljene Min far var flyselskap og han kunne ikke fly et fly uten å kjøre gjennom flere sjekklister. Jeg begynte å bruke dem i jolledagene, hovedsakelig for å kontrollere at jeg hadde alt utstyret mitt før jeg dro til et åpent møte med en dunkende bakrus. På den måten glemte jeg aldri noe. Det var tider. Nå bruker jeg dem av en rekke årsaker. 1 For å sjekke at jeg har alt utstyret mitt før jeg drar hjemmefra 2 Kontroller at alt er i bobilen 3 En oversikt over båtoppsettet mitt, f.eks. Mast rake, spenning i ryggen, arkinnstillinger osv. Osv. Det er mange variabler som seiler på en radioyacht, og da jeg først begynte å seile båten min, pleide jeg å fly den. Jeg ville slå opp, sette opp båten slik at den så riktig ut og seile. Men på noen dager var ting ikke helt riktig, og jeg kunne ikke sette fingeren på hva som var galt. En skoleguttfeil var å koble no 2 jib -bommen på no1 -kroken. På gode dager begynte jeg å registrere innstillingene mine og strukturerte gradvis sjekklisten min. Hvis du tar dette til det ekstreme, er det omtrent 24 datapunkter for hver rigg. Selvfølgelig trenger du ikke gå inn på dette detaljnivået, men jo mer du måler, desto mer vil du være trygg på oppsettet av båten din. Min opprinnelig sjekkliste er her. Min reviderte sjekkliste er mye forenklet

Den siste takten Hva du trenger å vite Ha en plan i tankene for det siste benet i forkant Løst deksel Hold deg mellom båtene bak og målgang Seil raskt og gratis Detaljene Det er sannsynlig at båtene er spredt, og det er ikke mye å vinne eller tape, men uansett om du er opportunist, må du alltid holde et øye med et vindskift som kan endre deg noen få steder. Det skjer ikke veldig ofte, men når det gjør det, vil du sparke deg selv hvis du savner det. Ha en plan for den siste takten. Oppretthold et løst deksel på båtene bak og hold deg mellom dem og den gunstige siden av banen. Hvis båtene bak splitt, dekker de løse som beveger seg mot den gunstige siden. Fokuser på å plassere båten din i midten av banen hvis det er mulig, slik at du kan dra nytte av plutselige skift begge veier. Når du krysser den siste takten, må du fastslå hvilken ende av målstreken som er nærmere, og sikte mot den enden. Spenning fører til klemming og tap av hastighet. Husk å puste og hold deg avslappet. Seil raskt og gratis, og du vil beholde posisjonen din, og hvem vet, kanskje få et par plasser på dem som mister konsentrasjonen og tar øyet av båten.

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