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How I chose a design and built my IOM Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

Før et arrangement Bestem hva som er målet ditt med seiling Kjenn din racing regler og taktikk Administrer investeringen din med den forsiktige vedlikehold av båt Seil raskt med høyre tuning og oppsett av båter Kjenn radiokontrollene dine Effektiv båtøvelse Sørg for konsekvent konfigurering ved bruk sjekklister Vet hvordan været vil hjelpe deg Nyttig referanser

Fitting the sails onto the rig Logg inn Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Sette seil på riggen En samtale med broren min forleden fikk meg til å tenke på hvordan IOM -riggen skulle fungere. Vi pleide å seile på joller og yachter. Stort sett ville vi seile på fraksjonerte riggbåter der bunnen av masten ble kontrollert av dekslene, sprederne og løperne. Bøyningen ble festet opp til hundene, og du økte eller reduserte den bøyningen ved hjelp av løperen, men når masten var satt var den ganske stiv. Trikset var å få masten til å fungere for deg over hundene på den ikke-støttede delen av brøkriggen. Det ideelle scenariet gikk slik. Hvis du treffer et vindkast vil toppen av masthodet bøye seg, flate den øvre delen av storseilet og åpne iglen slik at båten kan akselerere inn i vindkastet. Så snart vinden lette, ville masten rette seg og strømmen ble gjenopprettet. Vi seilte en gang på en båt som hadde balansen på riggen helt riktig. Det betydde at du kunne bære mer seil i større bris og ga et enormt konkurransefortrinn. Båten vant mange viktige offshore- og kystløp. Imidlertid er IOM -riggen mellom en brøkdel og en masthode -rigg på en yacht der forestay og backstay møtes på toppen av masten og svingen, og derfor kontrolleres storseils iglekontroll helt gjennom justering av løperne. Selvfølgelig har du andre justeringer på yachter som er viktige, f.eks. Storseilfot, cunningham osv., Som alle må justeres gjennom vindavstandene, men i denne artikkelen fokuserer jeg bare på mastebøyning og påvirkning på storseilet. IOM -riggen er et sted mellom en masthode og en fraksjonert rigget yacht. .Vår forestay sitter over hundene med en backstay på toppen av masten. Geometrien er satt opp slik at med forhåndsbøyning bygget inn i sparren, rettet ut av ryggstøtten, blir det lagt spenning i hodseilets luff- og igle -linje. Posisjonen til jib -svivellinjen til dekket sikrer at det meste av den spenningen går nedover jibben og ikke igle -linjen. Mastbøyning og derfor kontroll av storseil -igle kontrolleres gjennom masten, sprederiven og spenning på ryggstøtten. Jib leech -spenning styres av igle -linjen. Vi vil ha et riggoppsett som vil gi litt i puffer så båten akselererer og kjører, fremfor hæler og stall. Så hvordan kan det oppnås. Hvis du leser alle de viktigste rådene om oppsett av rigger, strammer du lukkespenningen akkurat nok til å stoppe at leeward -svetningen blir myk når den er i vind. Dette gjør at masten kan bøyes litt i puffer som gir akselerasjon. Hvis masten er for stiv, vil luftstrømmen stoppe og båten vil ikke akselerere i pusten. Start båtoppsettet ditt med båten pekende som på en løp. Trim bakstykket slik at masten er rett frem og bak. Still storseilsfoten til en dybde på 15 mm eller hva seilflyet ditt foreslår. Sett opp kicker -spenningen slik at storseil -iglen er litt vridd med den øverste lekten like utenfor parallelt med hovedbommen. Kontroller begge gybes for å sikre at masten er rett vertikalt. Twisten skal være den samme på hver jibe. Deretter peker du på båten som på et slag. Jeg antar at du har angitt riven i henhold til båtplanen ved hjelp av en målepinne eller målebånd. Målet vårt er å sette storseilet slik at den øverste lekten er parallell med bommens senterlinje ved å justere ryggstøtten og mastestammen. Når det er satt opp, bør det være lite behov for endring gjennom andre vindområder enn 1 mm tilpasninger på bakstykket. I et nylig zoommøte med Brad Gibson for Central Park MYG i USA, snakket Brad om å justere backstay med pluss minus 2 mm. Jeg vet ikke om deg, men tidligere var jeg litt mer aggressiv om bruken av ryggstøtten. Nå forstår jeg mer om presisjonen i oppsettet og vet hva de beste gutta gjør, jeg er mer forsiktig. Hvis du har lykkes med alt dette, vil du ha en perfekt utseende rigg, og hvis du ikke har overdrevet hodespenningen, vil riggen fungere for deg i vindkastene. Det er nok informasjon tilgjengelig om riggoppsett på nettet, til at du skal kunne oppnå riktig innstilling første gang og enda viktigere, gjenskape den innstillingen hver gang du skal seile. Her er noen bilder for å vise virkningen av 1 mm endringer på B -riggen. Start fra bunnen Start nederst og jobbe opp settet med bilder. De viser forhåndsbøyningen som er innebygd i masten og deretter den gradvise effekten av opptil 5 mm tilleggsopphold. Du kan se effekten best på mykning av utvaskingen. Prøv dette på din egen båt og se hvordan riggen din ser ut. Ignorer innstillingen av jibben da iglen er for stram og bommen kan lettes noe ut. Neste gang jeg prøver dette setter jeg kameraet opp på et stativ slik at vinkelen ikke endres mellom bildene. Jeg får et lignende sett med skudd for A -riggen i morgen. Oppsett av rigg - Påvirkningen av 5 mm på A -riggen Bare et kort innlegg for å gjenspeile leken min med A -riggen og tanker om oppsett for forskjellige vind- og huggetilstander. Se bildene nedenfor. Selvfølgelig vil seilet se litt annerledes ut i en bris. En rigg satt opp med 15 mm fotdybde og rett mast. Oppsett for hakket vann. Det vil miste vridning i en lett bris for akselerasjon over bølgene Bildet viser hvordan det å begynne med en rett mast, hvilken innvirkning det er å legge 5 mm til bakstykket på en A -rigg. Over 10 mm tilbakeslag forårsaker seilforvrengning Next Section Weigh and check measure

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

Weighing and check measuring the IOM Vei og sjekk mål båten Vei båten med A -riggen med alle beslag som for å seile med dekk lapper lagt løst på båt. Den skal veie 4 kg Gå gjennom klassereglene og sjekk mål båten. Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like Sett båten til å flyte på linene Hva du trenger vet Ta din fullt riggede båt opp i vekt med korrektorer Flyt båten på en rolig dag på et fiskedamm, tjern eller et dypt bad og sett korreksjoner for å sette båten på linjen Sjekk tiltak mot klassens regler Prosessen Vei og sjekk mål Vei den fullt riggede båten tørr. Legg til to likevektskorrigatorer på hver side av finneboksen i midten for å utgjøre båtens vekt til 4 kg. Flyt båten og sjekk om den sitter på linene. Du må kanskje justere plasseringen til korrektorene. Når båten er på linjen, merker du og binder blykorrektoren inn med silisiumforsegler. Jeg har hørt at noen mennesker putter en liten mengde bly i radiogryten slik at de kan gjøre justeringer av korrigeringsvekten hvis de endrer en passform. Trekk en kopi av klassens regler fra HER Sjekk mål så mye du kan. Den ene målingen du kan ha problemer med er den totale lengden og dybden fra vannlinjen til bunnen av finnen. Dette gjøres i en spesiell tank. Klikk her for måle- og sertifiseringsprosedyre Tenkte for dagen - Få mest mulig ut av korrektorer Gitt at vi bruker mye krefter på å få gram vekt fra fordekket og masten for å redusere pitching moment i en kotelett, begynte jeg å tenke på hvordan jeg best kunne bygge korrekturene. Jeg ser på omtrent 400 gram bly som jeg vil ha så nær midten av båten for og bak, men også så lavt ned som mulig. Jeg så på å kjøpe blyklumper, men det endte med at jeg kjøpte blyskudd som jeg kunne lage i form med epoxy. Målet mitt er å gjøre korrektorer så flate som mulig, slik at de sitter i bunnen av båten. Bildet viser grovt forskjellen på flate korrektorer kan gjøre. Liten jeg gir, men en forskjell ikke desto mindre. Det øverste bildet viser virkningen av firkantede blyklumper ved finnekassen når båten krenges. Det nederste bildet viser en flat flat corrector. Pilene representerer massesenteret for hver korrektor. Den flatere versjonen har et massemiddelpunkt lavere enn kvadratkorrigereren, og i teorien gir båten mer rettende øyeblikk når båten er på skrå. Alle disse endringene jeg har gjort, er små. 11gms ut av jib -bommen, 30gms ut av masten og hovedbommen, 200gms ut av skroget på båten, større og lavere korrektorer. Det hele gir et mer rettende øyeblikk og mindre pitching -øyeblikk. Det er lett tilgang til bunnen av finboksen hvis du tar ned vinsjen. Det var lett å legge i to bånd med borrelås på hver side av skroget og plassere korrektorene på dette. Så nå er de faste, men flyttbare. Støpe korrekturene ved hjelp av epoxy og blyskudd som du kan få av eBay. Betyr at du kan forme korrigererne dine uansett hvor du vil Tenkte for dagen - Installer korrektorene. Det er lett tilgang til bunnen av finboksen hvis du tar ned vinsjen. Det var lett å legge i to bånd med borrelås på hver side av skroget og plassere korrektorene på dette. Så nå er de faste, men flyttbare. Støpe korrekturene ved hjelp av epoxy og blyskudd som du kan få av eBay. Betyr at du kan forme korrigererne dine uansett hvor du vil. Siste jobber før lansering Båten er fullt utstyrt, alle tre riggene er satt opp ved hjelp av riggmålestaven og startinnstillinger som er angitt på sjekklisten min. Radiokontrollsenderen er sjekket internt for å sikre at det ikke er noen ledninger som berører gimbals for arkene og rorpinnene. Enhver kontakt kan skape veldig merkelig tilfeldig oppførsel på gimbalene. Radioinnstillingen på senderen er som sjekkliste. Båtens vekt ble kontrollert for alle 3 riggene og korrektorene som ble installert på B- og C -riggene. Dette var de 10 gram mastinnleggene jeg kjøpte fra Sailsetc. Fordi jeg sparte 20 gram på A -riggen, kan jeg bruke 20 gram mindre av korrektorer på B- og C -riggen. Jeg teipet også rundt masten på lavere dekknivå for å stoppe bevegelser sidelengs, samt legge til en modifisert hælform for å stoppe masten rotere slik at sprederne ikke kommer ut av justering når du starter med masten. Se nederste bilde. Båtens totale vekt med hver rigg er mellom 4004-6 gram. De 3 dekklappene er på plass, så hun er klar til å gå på sin første tur på mandag, som tilfeldigvis er bursdagen min. Flott timing for spruting av båten. Neste trinn er å sette sammen et opplærings- og seilingsprogram for å bygge opp for statsborgere og eventuelle indikatorhendelser. Et par bilder nedenfor.

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

How I built a male plug Bygg støpselet Prosessen er best forklart av Brad Gibson, i videoen hans Bygg skrogpluggen men Det er noen nyanser som jeg dekker nedenfor: Klikk på et hvilket som helst bilde for å utvide bildet. 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works Innledende tanker om rigger Jeg har en stund nå vurdert hvilken rigg jeg skal kjøpe. Her er mine nåværende tanker og beslutninger om en rigg for den nye båten. Master Det er 3 rør og ett slisset design å velge mellom så vidt jeg er klar over. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube og Pierre Gonnet tube. Jeg har for tiden Housemartin spars og seil og er veldig fornøyd med ytelsen. Jeg kjøpte et A, B og C riggesett i fjor, og de var alle konkurransedyktige, men jeg leste at PG -mastene er lettere med lignende fleksibilitet og har seilt seilbåter, vet at vekt oppover kan gjøre hele forskjellen i en kotelett, så jeg er skal prøve noen og sammenligne vekter og stivhet og se hvordan de fungerer. Etter en prat med Potter Solutions bestemte vi oss for at 15 mm eller mindre er den optimale forbøyningen for A-riggen. Hvis du vil mer, kan du enkelt forvride sparren ved å komprimere masten mens du tar ut forhåndsbøyningen med ryggen, samt innføre ukontrollert sving mellom spredere og hunder og innføre for mye spenning i lett vær. Jeg må innrømme at jeg alltid har lidd av en liten luffsult like under jakthunden og lurte på om dette var forårsaket av forbøyningen. Lenser Jeg velger lette jib -bommer (Easton -pilaksel - 2515. 25/64 tommer i diameter, 15 tusendeler av tommers veggtykkelse) fra Sailsetc som har brukt en før og vil bruke avskåringer av masten til hovedbommen og gjenbruke min nåværende svanehals og beslag . Igjen er tanken her å gå for den letteste delen på baugen som krever den letteste motvekten. Beslag Jeg bruker en rulleleie svanehals for A-riggen og standard svanehals for B og C. Jeg bruker aerofolie-spredere, men de er hengt på wire så lett justerbar. Lokkene løper gjennom et hull foran masten med en bowsie -stopper inni. Jeg bruker en sailsetc cunningham ring på alle spars da mine Housemartin seil har både luffspenning og cunningham eye. Seil Som jeg nevnte ovenfor, bruker jeg Housemartin seil og har nettopp kjøpt et nytt A -sett for i år. Konkurransemessig ser jeg at BG og Sailboat RC (nåværende verdensmestere) med sitt støpte seil ser ut til å være valgseilene for mesterskap, men det kan bare være seilerne som bruker dem. Heldigvis ser jeg medlemmer på Emsworth som har begge seilene, så de kan gjøre en god sammenligning mellom alle tre. Selvfølgelig er det flere andre seilmakere, men dette er de tre verdensmesterskapets vinnende merker som har fått øye på de tilgjengelige dataene for øyeblikket, men jeg er ny i spillet og har sannsynligvis savnet mye. Hva er den beste pakken totalt sett Gjeldende observasjon antyder en SailboatRC -pakke ettersom de har vunnet de to siste verdenene og dominert andre arrangementer, men Britpop med BG -riggen har dominert i antall og suksesser siden 2011. Hvem skal dominere på Worlds i Kroatia neste år? SailboatRC er banebrytende støpte seil og har nå en utprøvd design og hvem vet hva de har på kortene. Jeg gleder meg til å se hvordan andre seildesignere og -byggere reagerer. Jib geometri. Det er alt i geometrien. Hvor mange av dere har problemet med at jib -bommen flikker ut på den ene eller den andre siden under rolige forhold, noe som gjør det umulig å seile. Jeg har støtt på dette problemet siden jeg lanserte min første båtbåt. Det var bare i en diskusjon med Dave Potter i forrige uke at jeg fant løsningen. Det er alt i geometrien. Se bildet nedenfor. Diagrammet til høyre har to diagrammer. Til venstre viser konfigurasjonen jeg brukte i fjor. Min igle -linje hadde fanget seg rundt sprederne et par ganger. Jeg trodde det var best å bruke en snor og knytte den fremover ved jibben uten å innse at dette påvirker geometrien og forårsaket at bommen sparket ut på en eller annen måte når det var der er liten eller ingen vind. Hvis du vil se dette i aksjon, setter du på forseglet for å løsne din nåværende igle -linje og knytter en løs utlutningslinje på enden av jib -bommen. Sørg for at linjen er lang nok til å nå inngangspunktet på masten. Sett luff og leach line under litt spenning. Først beveger du toppen av igle -linjen til høyre for masten (dvs. akterut) med en tomme eller så som angitt på bildet, og du bør se jib -bommen trekke inn i midtlinjen på båten. Flytt nu igle -linjen i motsatt retning, foran masten, og du bør se jib -bommen bevege seg så langt vekk fra midtlinjen som den kan. Når han snakket med Dave Potter, fortalte han meg at han og Deve Creed løste problemet ved å knytte jib -luffen og igle -linjen til en selvskruende skrue og dermed sikre at igle -linjen og jib -luff -spenningslinjen krysser masten på nøyaktig samme punkt, slik at jibben bom for å rotere fritt i alle retninger Jeg grublet på dette en stund og kom på en annen løsning ved hjelp av wire og en bowsie. Tråden igle linje og jib luff øye er festet til en bowsie inne i masten. De går ut av masten og jib -luffen kan hektes på et øye som er laget av ledningen. Begge kommer inn i masten på samme punkt og setter opp riktig geometri. Krysset fingrene for dette vil bety at jibbommen lett kan svinge fra den ene siden til den andre under rolige forhold. Jeg vil gi deg beskjed på slutten av uken om det fungerer Flere tanker om rigger Nøkkelen til oppsettet er å få mastebøyningen til å matche hovedkurven. Hvis du leser artikler av Brad Gibson om tuning og ser de siste intervjuene med New York Central Park MYC, vil du høre hvor presist oppsettet hans er. 1 Det er ingen tung bruk av Cunningham 2 Seilene hans er veldig glatte 3 Hovedfoten er satt på samme dybde for alle forhold 4 Ryggstøtten justeres med 2 til 4 mm bare under forholdene. 5 Han følger sine egne målinger for å starte oppsettet. Hovedmeldingen her er å ha et fast oppsett. BG har vært på dette spillet lenge og vet et presist oppsett for å gå fort. Vi kan korte ned erfaringslæringen ved å følge installasjonsnotatene på nettstedet hans eller fra designeren til hvilken båt du seiler. Kantun har et lignende sett med oppsettnumre og instruksjoner fra designeren som leveres med båtene sine. Andre designere har gjort lignende. Husk at hvis båten din er på siden, du har problemer med harde flekker på hoveddelen som må fjernes av overdreven Cunningham, må du justere variablene som er tilgjengelige for å bli kvitt de harde flekkene. De er: Masten er oppreist Spredevinkel (og kontroller at de er symmetriske, dvs. at masten din ikke har rotert) Mast vær Lokkens spenning Bløtgjøre eller herde forhåndsbøyningen Hvis du fortsatt har et problem, må du kontrollere at masten er rett opp til prebend, forhåndsbøyningen er progressiv i stedet for en plutselig bøyning. Selvfølgelig, hvis seilene dine er gamle, kan de ha strukket seg, og det vil være vanskelig å oppnå et perfekt resultat. Jeg viser deg oppsettet mitt nedenfor. Jeg skal ha en PG -rigg fra Potter Solutions med Housemartin -seil. Innstillingene er fra du vet hvor. Du kan få inntrykk av at jeg er en BG -fan. Det er fordi han har samlet all relevant oppsettinformasjon på nettstedet sitt, og det er det beste jeg har sett på mine reiser over internett, men ligner på Kantun. Han har også det nærmeste designet til en BritPOP tilgjengelig (alternativ) for hjemmebygging som jeg har. For de som er interessert i mastvektforskjeller, er det en 20 g forskjell mellom Housemartin og PG spar. Jeg har hørt at Sailsetc sparscome et sted i mellom. Vektene var 99 og 79 gram. Jeg har ikke gjort en måling på stivhet, men jeg er sikker på at noen der ute har gjort det. De føler seg ganske gode begge to. Prebend er 15 mm over 600 mm på A -riggen og 40 mm på B -riggen med en på C -riggen. A- og B -riggen ankom med et tydelig merke på hver som viser det nøyaktige punktet der pre -bend begynte. Etter å ha merket med dimensjonene fra båtplanen, la jeg masten på et langt bord. Bruk et par rosa blokker fra sailsetc (se bildet) eller lignende for å sikre at hullene er i riktig posisjon. For å starte monterte jeg en av de rosa blokkene og justerte masten slik at forhåndsbøyningen var nøyaktig loddrett fra bordet. Jeg kunne deretter bore forestay -hullet og justere alt til det vel vitende om at hvert hull ville være justert forover og bakover eller vinkelrett i tilfelle av spredere. Svanehalsen limes på med superlim før boring og festing med en kupé med firkanter av dekkplastmateriale under bunnen av svanehalsen. Bommen trenger bare boring på samme måte som ovenfor. Bruk de rosa boreblokkene til å justere forbøyningen med hull for fok, deksel, spredere og svanehals. Tenkte for dagen - Fullfør riggene Alt som gjenstår er å kutte masten i riktig lengde, passe til båten, legge til ryggstøtten og jibben og deretter avslutte endene på skjermene. For å kutte masten i riktig lengde brukte jeg et dummy -rør som ble satt inn i masthullet og merket av de nedre og øvre dekknivåene og posisjonen der jeg ville ha svanehalsen og det nedre grensebåndet. Dette må ikke være mindre enn 60 mm over det nedre dekknivået, men på alternativet er det ca 74 mm. Så måler jeg bare ned fra nedre grense på selve masten til bunnen med dummy -masten og kutter. Superlimt masthodet og hælbeslaget (når masten var kuttet til riktig lengde) slik at de ikke skulle bevege seg. Deretter satte jeg masten i båten, festet jibben og ryggstøtten og satte masten rett opp mot riven på planen. Etterpå festet jeg beslagene på endene på dekslene og festet riggskruene til båten. Riggen ble strammet lett slik at hoveddelen kan monteres og riggen justeres. En siste jobb er å finne en måte å stoppe masten ved et uhell å rotere. Rådet er å bruke svanehalsen. Dessverre låser svanehalsene jeg bruker ikke masten på plass, så jeg må finne en annen løsning. Jeg kuttet en tomme av mastdelen og deretter del dette og teip det på bunnen av masten med to tykke kabelbindere for å stoppe den tapede delen. På denne måten låser jeg masten sentralt og skyver den også litt fremover i mastetrinnet som gir båten bedre balanse. Det er noen få bilder av den ferdige B -riggen nedenfor Legg merke til at jeg ikke lenger bruker kabelbåndet som en svingdreie da de fortsatte å gå i stykker, så jeg har byttet den for en Sailsetc bomklemme og fester snøret til bommen med en arkkrok. Jeg er nå i en posisjon der jeg kan heve og senke jib -bommen .. Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Building a hul on a male plug Components for the bow, stern and bulkhead, simply a glass and epoxy sheet laid on a flat board covered in packaging tape which is a great release agent. For the rudder and servo supports, I laid glass over strip wood wrapped in packaging tape to create a light rigid beam to bond across the boat. The hull is laid up in the same way as the plug. Pre cut the cloth and mark a centreline on the hull and the cloth. Allow for an overlap of 1 inch on the foredeck. I used West systems slow cure epoxy resin which in the Summer gave me about half an hours work time. Stop work when the epoxy starts to go stringy and clean your tools with Acetone before mixing a fresh pot of epoxy. I use Nitril gloves which I wash in acetone to remove any sticky epoxy. I also use a full face filter mask although this is not needed. Unlike Polyurethane, epoxy does not smell too bad To begin the layup, paint the hull with epoxy. Add the first layer of E cloth and saturate the glass with epoxy using the aluminium roller. Take your time and make sure you get rid of all air bubbles. I worked on the hull first and then turned the mould over to work on the deck. Allow a 1 inch overlap on the deck and cut any excess cloth away with scissors. Keep a jar of acetone handy to keep the scissors clean. I added more epoxy over the first layer of E cloth prior to adding the second layer. Roll out and finish as per the first layer. Repeat for the final layer of S cloth Wrap the finished hull tightly in Peel ply. When I built the hull in about 75 degrees, I had to mix a second lot of epoxy for the final layer of S cloth as the first lot started curing. Once hardened, remove the peel ply, then add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. Like the plug the hull will look a mess but will look great once sanded. Sand the hull so you can see through to glass but do not cut any fibres. This will make the hull as light as possible and ready for a top coat of 2 pack polythene which is done after fit out. Fix any faults/holes as necessary. Once happy with hull finish cut through the centreline of the the foredeck and stern deck. Brad suggested a knife but I used a fine cutter on a Dremel. Prise the hull off the mould. This process was much easier than I thought it would be. The whole structure is flexible so once off the mould so put in a jig to keep the designed shape. Fullfør hoveddekket Så snart skroget er av formen få den rett inn i en jigg for å støtte skroget. Jeg kuttet ut rammer i kryssfiner ved hjelp av planene og festet disse til et sterkt flatbrett Jiggen skal brukes til å justere finnen og roret Klikk på et hvilket som helst bilde for å utvide bildet. Bond the foredeck and stern deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Bent piece of wire as long as the foredeck 1" glass tape Bow and stern plates The process Tape the the top of the previously cut foredeck and stern together with masking tape prior to bonding below. Sand the underside of the foredeck to provide a key for the 1"tape you are about to apply Bond the underneath of cut foredeck and stern deck with 1" fibreglass tape. Allow to cure and remove the masking tape. I put the glass tape underneath the deck and on top but I think you only need to bond underneath and fill the gap on top. To get the tape all the way up the foredeck, wet the tape with epoxy and roll up. Using the wire with a 1" bend at the end, to support the roll and unroll it right (with the hull upside down) to the end of the foredeck. Once unrolled it should sit flat and use the wire to move the tape if necessary. See image 4. Remember to put some peel ply over the top of the tape on top of the deck. Image 6. (This was probably an unnecessary step as I think the tape only needs to go on the underside.) The foredeck will be very strong because you will have 6 layers of glass including the overlay and the 1" tape. Slightly over engineered I think. Repeat the process on the stern deck. I had to put a plate across the stern and the next bridge as I had not finished the original layup properly. Image 8 and 9. Having taped on top of the foredeck I had to re apply 2 coats of high build epoxy and sand down. There is no need to do this if you bond underneath the deck only. I fitted 2 perpendicular end plates onto the jig so I could shape the bow and stern on the hull to be, one, vertical and two, at 90 degrees to the centre line of the boat. Image 10 Trim the bow and stern plate and fit with 5 min epoxy. Spot glue in place initially and then seal and fillet with epoxy and micro balloons. Fest fordekket og akterdekket Hva trenger du 5 minutter epoksy Langsom kur epoksy Bøyd trådbit så lang som fordekket 1 "glassbånd Baug og akterplater Prosessen Tape toppen av det tidligere kappede fordekket og hekken sammen med maskeringstape før limingen nedenfor. Se bilde 5. Slip undersiden av fordekket for å gi en nøkkel til 1 "båndet du skal påføre Fest undersiden av kuttet fordekk og akterdekk med 1 "glassfiberteip. Bilde 4. La herde og fjerne maskeringstapen. Jeg la glassbåndet under dekk og på toppen, men jeg tror du bare trenger å binde under og fylle hullet på toppen. For å få tapen helt opp på fordekket, våt tapen med epoxy og rull opp. Ved å bruke ledningen med en 1 "bøyning på enden, kan du støtte rullen og rulle den ut (med skroget opp ned) til enden av fordekket. Når den er rullet ut, skal den sitte flatt og bruke ledningen til å flytte båndet om nødvendig. Se bilde 4. Husk å legge litt skall på toppen av båndet på toppen av dekket. Bilde 6. (Dette var sannsynligvis et unødvendig trinn, da jeg tror båndet bare trenger å gå på undersiden.) Fordekket vil være veldig sterkt fordi du vil ha 6 lag glass inkludert overlegg og 1 "tape. Litt overkonstruert. Gjenta prosessen på akterdekket. Jeg måtte sette en tallerken over hekken og den neste broen da jeg ikke hadde fullført den opprinnelige oppsettet riktig. Bilde 8 og 9. Etter å ha teipet på toppen av fordekket måtte jeg påføre 2 strøk epoxy med høy oppbygning og slipe ned. Det er ikke nødvendig å gjøre dette hvis du bare binder deg under dekket. Jeg monterte 2 vinkelrette endeplater på jiggen slik at jeg kunne forme baugen og akterenden på skroget til å være, en, vertikal og to, 90 grader mot båtens senterlinje. Bilde 10 Trim baugen og akterplaten og pass på med 5 min epoxy. Legg lim på plass først og forsegle og fileter med epoksy og mikroballonger. Fig. 8 viser første passform. Fjern til slutt overflødig dekk slik at hullene er synlige i henhold til planen. Se bilde 7 og 8. På bilde 5 er bare akterdekket på plass. På neste båt skal jeg fullføre dekket opp til pluggposten. Nå kommer det jeg synes er den vanskeligste delen av byggeprosessen. Merking opp og kutte et hull i skroget for finnen og liming i et justert finnerhus og feste det til dekket og fremover skottet. Når jeg bygger min neste båt vil jeg legge til bilder av finneposisjonen. Klikk på et hvilket som helst bilde for å utvide bildet. The fin case, bulkhead and forward aft deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Fin Fin case Rudder Rudder stock brass tubes Cross bars for rudder stock and rudder servo mount. Prepared forward part of the aft deck Cut out bulkhead shape to fit under fordeck 1"glass tape Various fittings, jib tack bolts, mast ram, mainsheet post, back stay bolt, mainsheet pulley blocks, fairleads to allow the endless mainsheet to go through bulkhead The Details Tape the hull into the jig so the shroud points on the deck are parallel to the base of the jig. Everything will be aligned to this. Measuring from the stern datum, mark the front and back of the fin hole on the outside of the hull. Then mark a centreline which you will have marked on the frames of the jig. This will get the correct alignment for the fin hole. Remove the hull and using the fin, mark the contour of the fin. Cut out the slot for the fin using a Dremel or similar being careful to cut well inside the line. Use sandpaper to open the slot to fit the fin exactly. Tape the hull back in the jig. With the fin in the slot, push the fin case over the fin so that the bottom of the case is lying on the hull. There are two measurements on the plan to align the fin, one shows the tip of the fin where is enters the bulb. This should be 330mm from the bottom of the hull and the other measures from the same fin tip to the bottom of the bow of the boat. If set up correctly the leading edge of the fin should be perpendicular to the waterline. Shape the bottom of the fin box and fin until this is achieved. Ideally the fin should fit all the way into the fin box. I used some string to determined the position of the tip of the fin. Reinforce the shroud bolt locations with half an inch of 1" tape and once dry fit the shrouds. There is a huge amount of strength with this design in this area and no further reinforcement is needed. Fit the shroud bolt now while you have access to the underside of the deck. Once the base of the fin box is shaped and the fin aligned, now is the time to dry fit the forward part of the aft deck and trim the top of the fin box until the deck fits snuggly. Spot glue the fin box in place with the fin in the box and support in the right position. Once fixed seal the fin box to the hull with 5 min epoxy and microballoons with a small fillet. Finally reinforce the fin box to the hull with 1"glass tape and epoxy. With the fin box in place, dry fit the forward part of the deck with the fin box and forward bulkhead. Once happy with fit, do a final check that the forward bulkhead is in the right place from the stern datum. Get this wrong and you will have issues with your mast ram. Spot glue with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon. With 5 min epoxy and micro balloon seal the bulkhead and seal where the fin box connects with the deck. Finally reinforce the top of the fin box with fin one inch tape. Finally glue the radio pot holder under the deck and seal with epoxy. In my first build I glued the pot on top which looks messy. Bond in the cross beams for the servo and rudder stock with one inch tape See image below for positions. Remember to sand the inside of the hull to create a good keyed surface. Drill the hole in the deck for the fin bolt and mast. Now is the time to check for leaks. Fill the depressed area of the deck forward of the radio pot with water and see if there are any leaks. Drill a 4mm hole in the hull for the rudder, with the central point located from the jig and distance from the aft datum measured off the plan. The rudder stock is 2 tubes of brass, one 5mm o/d and one 4mm o/d. The two tubes slot into one another and the rudder post goes inside for a very tight fit. Mark on the rudder brace bar a line which when a hole is drilled for the stock ensures the trailing edge of the rudder does not extend beyond the stern of the boat. The rudder stock will project a couple of mm above the cross bar. Drill a hole in the centre and ream it wide perpendicular to the hull. Fit the stock in place on the rudder and in the boat. Apply some 5 min epoxy with micro balloon to fix the top of the stock with the rudder exactly aligned with the keel. Leave to set, then seal the stock in the hull and reinforce the top if necessary. The worst is over. My first cross beam was so strong I saved weight by cutting it in half. The next cross beam will be much lighter. Paint the whole boat in 2 pack polyurethane top coat and lightly rub and t-cut to desired finish Fit the mainsheet post, backstay bolt, aft pulley for mainsheet, fairleads for sheet control through the bulkhead, setting these as low as possible so they don't interfere with the kicker on a run on port gybe. Fit the 4 jib sheet leads in the foredeck and the 3 tack bolts. Finally, drill a bung hole, push a needle through the centre of the bung, thread a chord and tie to the backstay. Drill two bolts to hold the winch bracket in the forward bulkhead. Align the winch with the fairleads. The bracket was just a 90 degree moulding cut to shape around the winch and enough flange to brace it securely to the bulkhead. Drill a hole for the mast ram and fit. Bond a strengthening post in the foredeck around the jib tack area to stop foredeck lifting under load. Don't fit the radio pot until correctors have been fitted. Den siste monteringsjobben på båten Hva trenger du Rotorarm for ror Kobling fra roret til servoen Servo Mottaker Batteri LiFeP04 batteri 1600mA (mer enn et helt døgns levetid). Du kan bruke så lite som 900mA hvis du trenger å spare vekt. Vanntett av/på -bryter RG vinsj og støttebrakett. Prosessen Bor et hull i det fremre skottet på venstre side for den elektriske av/på -bryteren og monter den. Monter vinsjen på støttebraketten og løs passform på skottet. Lag et hull i tverrbraketten for servoen og monter og før kabelen til radiogryten. Lag et hull i toppen av radiogryten like under støtterammen, og før servoen og bryteren for batteriet til innsiden av potten gjennom hullet. Koble rorservoen til kanal 1 på mottakeren. Koble vinsjkontakten til kanal 3 og sett den tredje løse vinsjekabelen til en redundant senterstift, si kanal 5. Koble bryteren til vinsjen. Bruk XT30 -kontakter der det er mulig, eller du vant nok kraft til vinsjen. Hvis du slår på strømmen, vil lyden med en påslått sender flytte roret og vinsjen. Det er en hel del om oppsettet av radiosenderen HER . Hvis alt fungerer, er du klar til å passe den endeløse arkjustereren. Det endeløse arket er en vanskelig jobb. Jeg kjøpte vinsjen med en selvspennende returskive, det vil si at den er utstyrt med en fjær som vil stoppe arklinjen å gå slakk. Finn endepunktene på vinsjen ved å flytte kontrollpinnen på senderen helt opp og ned. Jeg bruker opp for ark helt ut og ned for helt inn. Permisjon kontrollpinnen ned (ark inn). Ta to linjer og trå gjennom skottets fairleads og løp til vinsjen. Den ytre linjen trekker arkene inn og den indre slipper arket ut. På vinsjen er den nederste remskiven ark inn, den øverste fjærede remskiven er ark ut. Fest den nedre remskiven med den ytre linjen og vikle den rundt 5 ganger. Fest den indre linjen til den øvre remskiven, men bruk bare en og a halve omdreininger. Ved å holde linjene lett strammet slik at du ikke mister vikler på vinsjen, kan du nå montere vinsjen sikkert. Den ytre linjen kjøres langs dekket og gjennom den bakre remskiven nær ryggstøtten på styrbord side, gjenget ut til inn og deretter festet til en 5 mm rustfri ring 2 "fra remskiven. Den innvendige linjen (ark ut) kan strammes, du vil føle motstanden til den selvspennende remskiven og bindes til den rustfrie ringen, slik at det endeløse systemet er rimelig tett. Hoved- og jibbladene vil bindes til ringen. Det endeløse hovedarksystemet er komplett. If you turn the power on, with any luck a switched on transmitter will move the rudder and winch. There is a whole section on the setup of the radio transmitter HERE . If all works you are ready to fit the endless sheet adjuster. The endless sheet is a fiddly job. I bought the winch with a self tensioning return pulley, i.e it is fitted with a spring that will stop the sheet line going slack. Find the end points of the winch by moving the control stick on the transmitter fully up and down. I use up for sheet fully out and down for fully in. Leave the control stick down (sheet in). Take two lines and thread through the bulkhead fairleads and run to the winch. The outer line will pull the sheets in and the inner will let the sheet out. On the winch the bottom pulley is sheet in, the top sprung pulley is sheet out. With the outer line, tie off on the lower pulley and wrap 5 times round the pulley. Tie the inner line to the upper pulley but only use one and a half turns. Keeping the lines lightly tensioned so you don't lose wraps on the winch, you can now securely mount the winch. The outer line is run along the deck and through the aft pulley near the backstay on the starboard side, threaded out to in and then tied to a 5mm stainless ring 2" from the pulley block. The inside line (sheet out) can be tensioned, you will feel the resistance of the self tensioning pulley and tie off to the stainless ring so the endless system is reasonable tight. The main and jib sheets will tie off to the ring. The endless mainsheet system is complete. Sluttresultatet Next Section The optimised Alternative build

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. Plassering av noen IOM -eiere over hele verden I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.